Laurie Berger
text by Laurie Berger
True foodies know that great restaurants are often located off the beaten path. Justin Eat & Drink is one such place – a casual, chef-driven gem in the heart of Cathedral City.
Hidden in a strip mall off Highway 111 (next to a massage parlor and herb shop), this southern-influenced, New American helmed by chef/owner Justin Jenkins is worth the trek.
The menu of seasonal, locally sourced ingredients defies definition. Starters such as Birds & Bees and Korean Fried Chicken share the lineup with Wagyu Beef Burger, Endive Right In and other whimsical dishes.
But don’t let quirky menu names scary you off. There’s something for everyone at this cozy, farm-to-table-style restaurant. You’ll find innovative takes on chicken, burgers, steaks – even meatless and vegan-friendly choices.
Jenkins, who honed his cooking chops at Wally’s in the Desert, opened Justin Eat & Drink in 2017 to bring more creative cuisine to the Coachella Valley.
“It’s whatever I’m feeling passionate about,” say Jenkins, a self-taught chef from Texas, who studied medicine and architecture before finding his true calling behind the stove.
Fan faves include Cowboy Candy (candied jalapenos and cream cheese on crostini), Roasted Cauliflower, Grilled Cheese with Jam, Hangar Steak, Fried Brussel Sprouts and Bavarian Pork Shank.
Jenkins uses the highest-quality ingredients in his cooking, sourced from local and organic producers, such as Sage Mountain Farms and Jidori. Even the Anson Mills heirloom grits are special.
And, you may never see the same dish twice. Jenkins changes the menu when ingredients go out of season, or he gets tired of making something: “To be punk rock about it, if a dish gets too mainstream, I’ll take it off.”
Some items remain due to popular demand, including Shrimp & Grits, a hearty blend of shrimp, heirloom grits, bacon and gruyere cheese (optional: get it Justin-style topped with fried egg).
“I tried to take it off the menu and there was outrage. But don’t worry, it’s not going anywhere,” he reassures.
Jenkins continually toys with his most-beloved recipes. He blames it on the first “mind-blowing meal” he ate at the Cheesecake Factory as a teenager.
“When I went back there, it never lived up to my expectations,” he explains. “That’s why a dish at this restaurant has to be as good or better the next time.”
Besides food, expect a good helping of southern hospitality at Justin Eat & Drink. “My family lives in Texas so I can’t feed them everyday,” Jenkins says. “When people come here, we treat them like family.”
Clearly, Jenkins’ approach is paying off. The weekend night we visited, the restaurant was packed with diners inside and on the patio in this casual, feel-good eatery.
During Greater Palm Springs Restaurant Week, (June 1-17) Justin Eat & Drink is offering a $29, 3 course dinner.
The Details
Where: 68784 East Palm Canyon Dr., Cathedral City 92234
Hours: Wed, Thurs and Sunday 5-9 pm; Friday-Sat, 5-10 pm
Closed: Monday and Tuesday
Price: $5-25
Drink: Wine and local craft beers from Coachella Valley Brewing Co. and La Quinta Brewing Co.
Contact: 760-904-4093 Reservations recommended
Web: justinrestaurant.com