Laurie Berger
text+photos by Laurie Berger, Food & Drink Editor
Tommy Bahama, the maker of premium Hawaiian shirts and restaurants for boomers, is setting its sights on millennials with a new Key-West-inspired watering hole in downtown Palm Springs.
The Marlin Bar, which opened last May in the Kimpton Rowan Hotel complex, has become a hot spot for quick bites, adult beverages and people watching along busy Palm Canyon Drive. The vibe? Margaritaville for the Coachella crowd.
Frozen cocktail blenders churn brightly-colored drinks. Mai Tais garnished with orchids flow freely at the walkaround bar. And coconut shrimp, overstuffed tacos and huge poke bowls dot every table. There’s live music Thursday to Monday nights and a weekday Happy Hour with draft beer and umbrella drinks for $6. The only thing missing is Jimmy Buffett himself.
Not Your Father’s Tommy Bahama
Yelpers have praised the indoor-outdoor newcomer as Tommy Bahama’s “hip younger brother.” They give thumbs up to fresh food, inventive drinks, large portions, fast service and friendly wait staff. The huge patio with misting umbrellas earns kudos as a great place to beat the heat.
Critics, on the other hand, point out service issues: Is it a store, a bar or a restaurant? Where do we order? “Do we get served at the table or pick up our food?” “What if we want to keep an open tab?” they ask. One media outlet even dubbed Marlin Bar “the world fanciest Chipotle counter.”
“Yeah, we know that can be confusing,” General Manager Ron Youngberg, Jr. told Coachella Magazine. “This was originally supposed to be a food truck concept (because back of the house is so small), but we changed it to a casual restaurant.”
That hasn’t deterred hungry diners of all ages from refueling at this island-themed outpost. And once you know the drill, it’s easy to navigate.
“Start Here,” says a sign at the entrance. Arrows point the way: Store to left, bar to right. Step-by-step instructions spell out logistics to first-timers: Grab a menu, order and pay at the counter, take a number, find a table—and, in the island spirit, “relax and enjoy.”
Island-Friendly Fare
Expect a drink menu as cool as the vibe. Libations bearing names like Crazy Cuban, Pineapple Paradisio, Coconut Cloud and Faux-jito (non-alcoholic) are spiked with citrus, guava, pineapple and pomegranates. Coconut fans will love Painkiller #2 (with alcohol) or Pain Chiller (zero proof). The frozen Peach Marlin with real fruit is not to be missed.
The food lineup is equally island-friendly: Flatbreads, guacamole, plantains and “loaded” tots for starters. “Hand-helds” featuring mini sliders, sandwiches, tacos served 5 ways. Oversized salads, bowls and a decadent Lobster Mac and cheese for entrees. If there’s still room, Strauss Family Creamery organic soft-serve ice cream with assorted toppings for dessert.
During a recent visit, I was drawn to the Mahi Mahi Reuben but went with the healthier Lump Blue Crab and Avocado Salad. The huge tower of fresh crabmeat and shredded romaine with citrus dressing was refreshing (and big enough to share).
But I couldn’t ignore the steady stream of “signature dishes” landing at other tables (yes, they serve!). So, I went on to taste the “world-famous” coconut shrimp appetizer—lightly crusted with shredded coconut in a papaya mango salsa— and Pulled Pork Slider on puffy bun stuffed with mango-guava BBQ sauce, crispy onions and slaw.
Tacos Take the Prize
The hands-down winners, however, were the tacos (beef, chicken, fish or veggies). I chose the Blackened Shrimp version—two tortillas bulging with grilled shrimp, slaw, mango salsa and a drizzle of spicy aioli. So big, I had to eat them with a fork.
Blackened Mahi Mahi Tacos with tomato relish, slaw and a swirl of aioli and lime sour cream also caught my eye. I snapped a photo as a reminder for the next visit. And because I’m a sauce addict, my “dessert” was an off-menu sampling of the cajun, jerk, chipotle and fruit salsas. (Ask nicely and the friendly servers may accommodate your cravings).
Truth be told, I was skeptical about Marlin Bar. I’m not a fan of chain restaurants and had low expectations for an “in-store” one. But this experience changed—or rather, blew—my mind.
“So many people have no idea how good our food and drinks are until they try them,” says Marlin Bar District Manager Arturo Coronel. The food is super fresh (because our footprint is small). Our walk-in fridges are smaller than your fridge at home.”
The Details:
What: Tommy Bahama Marlin Bar
Where: 111 North Palm Canyon Drive Suite 150
Phone: (760) 778-0019
Hours: 11am-9pm Sunday-Wednesday; 11am-10pm Thursday-Saturday; Happy Hour Monday-Friday 3-6pm; Live music Thursday-Monday 5:30-9:30pm
Price: Appetizers and sides $5-14; Entrees $10-19; Drinks $6-18 (not including bottles of wine).